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Hace tiempo encontre en North sails esta guia rapida de trimado de las velas, aunque esta en inglés, para quien no se maneje puede utilizar el google translator (ZP no ,seguro) pueden hacer esto: (ir a Google, y en el menu superior pulsar "mas").

Para los que se manejen :
The First Class 8 Tuning Guide was originally written by North sails, I added
the tension data to aid in set up. These are the setting I used this past summer
and your use and comments are welcome. The use of a loos gauge will be helpful
to perfect the mast tuning so it can be duplicated and or changed for different
conditions.
*RIG- & MAST TUNING*
1. Head stay must be as long as possible (maximum mast rake). Use the
longest possible length of the head stay adjustment fitting. Weather helm must
be accepted, this is fastest solution. Tension forestay to 18%-22% of breaking
strength for 5mm wire rigging.
2. Measure between the chain plates to make sure the mast is in the
middle (sideways) of the boat. Mast hole in deck is not always in the middle!
3. The mast must be held sideways with kedges, old sail battens are perfect
to do this with.
4. Measure with mainsail halyard if mast top is in the middle of the boat.
Tension both upper shrouds equally (21% of breaking strength).
5. Lower shrouds (18% of breaking strength) but must be adjusted so that the
mast shows a permanent curve (bend) of about 100-120 mm (4”-4 ¾”) at the
spreaders. Attach the mainsail halyard to the mainsail tack to check this on the
boat.
6. Mast position must be totally forward at the deck position, fix the
mast in this position with kedges. Secure the kedges so they don't move!
7. Take enough time to do this job precisely, and check the mast and its
bending characteristics on both tacks in as many wind conditions as practicable
and possible while exercising.
*Remarks:
*The fastest FC-8 sailors have changed the standing rigging into
DYE-FORM material, which has 15% less stretch. Not included is the
permanent backstay, because that's adjustable. If your boat is older, it
might be useful to change the rigging anyway!
The reason for this is as follows:
The chain plates are quite far behind the mast. Tensioning the running
backstays means pulling the mast aft, causing the upper shrouds to have
less tension, thus causing the mast to fall to leeward, which is slow
upwind, while opening the mainsail leech. Dyeform causes also more
tension on the head stay, without excessive tension on the running
backstays and gives more control. The true art of rig tuning is to avoid
the mast top to bend to leeward or minimize this effect, and as a result
have maximum head stay tension WITHOUT using the running backstays......
Only DYFORM standing rigging makes this possible......!
*Sailing the First Class 8*
Always sail with maximum crew. Keep the boat on its feet, excessive
heeling causes weather helm, thus slowing the boat down. Hike hard!!
Stability is a very important speed factor.......!! Recommended weight
for the crew is 400-425 Kgs(890-936 pounds). in total. The mainsail traveler
must be kept in the middle (or close to the middle) sailing with the #-1 genoa.
Using the Inter Genoa the mainsail traveler must be 100-150 mm (4-6 inches) too
leeward.
The permanent backstay is not used at all, except for the lightest
winds. Trimming the mainsail gives enough tension on the leech to bend
the mast, unless the boat is truly overpowered. In wind and waves the
main must be as "open" as possible, with a fairly sizable air bubble
behind the mast. This is needed to power the FC-8 through the waves.
Flattening the mainsail too much has to be paid for in pointing and
speed. Do not overstretch the foot of the mainsail, keep some shape
above the boom.
The mainsail must be "fine tuned" at all times. The best way to achieve
this is changing the mainsheet system with a "course" and "fine" tuning
system. The helmsman should trim the mainsail himself. He has most "feel"
of the pressure on the helm. The mainsail must be trimmed with enough
pressure the keep the boat pointing high, otherwise the boat will bear
down and heel too much, causing even more weather helm. Never sail with
a fluttering mainsail, it's slow and causes the boat to drop off to
leeward. Always keep the battens stable.
In lighter airs the mainsail must be trimmed as hard as possible,
checking the "tell-tale" at the top batten from time to time. Pointing
too high causes the t-tale to flow aft, pointing too low is causing the
t-tale to stall. To achieve this, use the traveler, the permanent
backstay, and most important, the mainsheet.
In heavy air we like the long luff / short foot jib most in smooth
water. For offshore in big waves I think the short luff / longer foot
jib is slightly better. The narrower jib must be sheeted on an extra
track, sitting on the coach roof sideways of the mast.
Never reef the mainsail, that's slow, in stead use the smallest jib.
*CREW-POSITION*
The crew must be situated as far forward and as close together as
possible, but not further forward as the chain plate position. The
helmsman must be as close forward as possible too. Feet brackets are an
essential, so the helmsman can steer the boat in heavy air and big waves
in an relaxed position and can be concentrated on steering the boat,
instead of falling off............. A good solution for a foot-rest is
moving the aft teak rail further inboard with a bracket, so that the
helmsman's feet fit in between the aft seat and the teak rail.
Also you need to fix a sail batten at the mast top, holding the permanent
backstay away from the leech of the mainsail, so that it cannot "snag"
at the top batten of the mainsail while tacking and/or gybing.
FC-8 responds very well on well trimmed and shaped sails, but also needs
a "firm" hand to be steered as fast as possible, both down- and upwind.
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Salud2