Vela Beneteau First Class 8

[patxito7]

Por cierto, se me olvidaba.
¿De qué tipo de madera son los pasamanos, caña, etc de exterior?
Si es teca supongo que no tendre que hacer nada, sino tocará darle algo porque esta en un estado lamentable. De hecho lo pasamanos encina de la cabina están doblados.

[patxito7]

Aqui tengo una foto de los stoppers sanos

https://www.dropbox.com/s/hlprsrrop0rrdk1/2016-04-24%2017.33.391.jpg?dl=0

[Descotado]

Patxxito,
Los pasamanos son de HAYA. flexible y resistente.
haz esto:
Lija
Imprimacion TITAN antiUV
Barniz dos componentes antiUV.
Cuando veas que te han quedado guapisimos con sus lijas finas etc,aplicalers una pasada de EPOXY,
No se despellejaran durante varios años, aunque cambiara ligeramente el color, al final, cuando no te gusten los cambias de carpinteria.
si les das solo antiUV te van a durar un par de años, con el EPOXY no podras quitarlo o te costara tanto que es mas sencillo y barato recomprar esas pocas varillas en un almacen de maderas o en el LMerlin.

Hay quien las lleva sinteticas , tipo plastico o sinteticas, incluso metalicas,

Originalmente publicado por patxito7

Por cierto, se me olvidaba.
¿De qué tipo de madera son los pasamanos, caña, etc de exterior?
Si es teca supongo que no tendre que hacer nada, sino tocará darle algo porque esta en un estado lamentable. De hecho lo pasamanos encina de la cabina están doblados.

[Descotado]

Subo foto para manitas.
No es mia.
Paco

Originalmente publicado por Descotado

Patxxito,
Los pasamanos son de HAYA. flexible y resistente.
haz esto:
Lija
Imprimacion TITAN antiUV
Barniz dos componentes antiUV.
Cuando veas que te han quedado guapisimos con sus lijas finas etc,aplicalers una pasada de EPOXY,
No se despellejaran durante varios años, aunque cambiara ligeramente el color, al final, cuando no te gusten los cambias de carpinteria.
si les das solo antiUV te van a durar un par de años, con el EPOXY no podras quitarlo o te costara tanto que es mas sencillo y barato recomprar esas pocas varillas en un almacen de maderas o en el LMerlin.

Hay quien las lleva sinteticas , tipo plastico o sinteticas, incluso metalicas,

[Descotado]

Innhold
1 Rig- & Mast tuning
2 Remarks
3 Sailing the First Class 8
4 Crew-position in First Class 8
Rig- & Mast tuning

Headstay must be as long as possible(maximum mastrake). Use the longest possible length of the headstay adjustment fitting. Weather helm must be accepted, this is the fastest solution.
Measure between the chainplates to make sure the mast is in middle ( sideways ) of the boat. Masthole in deck is not always in the middle.
The mast must be held sideways with kedges, old sailbattens are perfect to use.
Measure with mainsail halyard if masttop is in middle of the boat. After that tension both upper shrouds equally.( tension as much as Much as you dare until they are really tight).
Lower shrouds must be adjusted so that mast shows a permanent curve (bend) of about 100-120mm at the spreaders . Tension mainsail halyard to the mainsail tack to check this on the boat.
Mastposition must be totally forward at the deckposition , fix the mast in this position with kedges. Secure the kedges so they don’t move.
Take enough time to do this job precisely,and check the mast and it’s bending characteristics on both tacks in as many windconditions as practible and possible while exercising.
Remarks

The fastest FC8 sailors have changed the standing rigging into DYE-FORM material , which has 15% less stretch. Not included is the permanent backstay, because that’s adjustable. If your boat is older it might be usefull to change the rigging anyway. The reason for this is as follows:The chainplates are quite far behind the mast . Tension the running backstay meams pulling the mast aft, causing the upper shourds to have less tension,this causing the mast to fall to leeward,which is slow upwind,while opening the mainsail leech. DYE-FORM causes also more tension on the headstay,without excessive tension on the running backstays and gives more control. The true art of rig tuning is to avoid the mast top to bend to leeward or Minimize this effect, and as a result have maximum headstay tension WITHOUT using the running backstays. Only DYE-FORM standing rigging make this possible !!!

Sailing the First Class 8

Always sail with maximum crew. Keep the boat on it’s feet,excessive heeling causes weatherhelm, this slowing the boat down. Hike hard!! Stability is a very important speed factor. Recommended weight for the crew ii 400-425 Kgs. in total.
The mainsail traveller must be kept in the middle or close to middle sailing the genoa 1.
Using the inter genoa the mainsail traveller must be 100-150mm. To leeward.
The permanent backstay is not used at all. Triming the mainsail gives enough tension on the leech to bend the mast,unless the boat is truly overpowered. In wind and waves the mainsail must be “open” as possible, with a fairly sizeble air bubble behind the mast. This is needed to power the FC8 through the waves. Flattening the mainsail too much has to be paid for in pointing an speed. Do not overstretch the foot on the mainsail, keep some shape above the boom.The mainsail must be “fine tuned” at all times. The best way to achieve this is changing the mainsheet system with a “course” and “fine tuningsystem".
The helmsman should trim the mainsail himself because he has most “feel” of the pressure on the helm. The mainsail must be trimmed with enough pressure to the boat pointing high, otherwise the boat will bear down and hell to much, causing more weatherhelm.
Never sail with a fluttering mainsail, It’s slow and causes the boat to drop off to leeward. Always keep the battens stable. In lighter air’s the mainsail must be trimmed as hard as possible, checking the telltale at the topbatten from time to time. Pointing too high causes the telltale to flow aft, pointing too low is causing the telltale to stall.
In heavy air we like the long luff/short foot jib in smooth water.
For offshore sailing in big waves the short luff/longer foot jib is slightly better. The narrower jib must be sheeted on an extra track, sitting on the coachroof sideway of the mast.
Never reef the mainsail, that’s slow, in stead use the smallest jib.
Crew-position in First Class 8

The crew must be situated as far forward and as close together as Possible, but not further as the chainplate position.
The helmsman must be as close forward as possible too.
Feet brackets are essential, so the helmsman can steer the boat in heavy air and big waves in an relaxed position and be concentrated on steering the boat, instead of falling off…… A good solution for a footrest is moving the aft teakrail further inboard with a bracket, so the helmsman’s feet fit in between the aft seat and the teakrail.
Also you need to fix a sailbatten at the masttop, holding the permanent backstay away from the leech of the mainsail, so it cannot “snag” at the topbatten of the mainsail while tacking and/ or gibing.
You also need a very good and optimised centreboard-, rudder- and bottompaint on your boat.
Make sure that all fittings are small, lightweight and of good quality, and all ropes and sheets are light and thin.


I wish you “beaucoup de success,et bon vitesse” sailing the First Class 8 an hope this information can get you to sail faster!!!!



Regards, Hein Kersken

North Sails Germany

[Descotado]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJQB6-bDwyg

Espero podais verlo.
Eso es navegar....

[Descotado]

Patxito, te leo en otro hilo sobre asunto baterias ,luces,calbles etc en el FC8.

Posiblemente lo tienes solucionado.
Pero te comento como resolvi yo el asunto,..
el FC( solo tienen un cable pasado al centro de la cabina a popa del palo, si aun exist5e, ya tienes casi todo .
Pero ....
Debe tener caja de bateria, o al menos comprar una vale poco mas de 15€, la fijas debajo de la mesa/cajon de cartas que es su sitio. lleva los cables de buen grosor (como de coche) a una caja de conexiones, de ahi podras llevar corriente a una caja de interruptores y dar luz a lo principal:
Palo y luces de navegacion si las llevas a tope de palo tricolor. Sino compra economicas o segundamano y las pones en cubieirta. Los cables de calidad que pondras los puedes pegar y disimular con cinta americana que hay de varios colores.

Una bateria de 45Amp/H de coche es sufuciente. Un cargador tipo Lidel tambien. Y enchufada a pantalan, o una placa de 100€....a elegir.

La emisora, si llevas legalizada una portatil, puedes llevar a tu gusto una fija como reserva, pero no puedes meterle MMSI etc, eso ya depende de por donde navegues.

Por ultimo, pon siempre luces LED, no gastan nada, la bateria es eterna si la recargas .
En mi caso llevo una bat de coche que la quito y sustuituyo por una de moto en regatas, solo para la radio. La de coche me esta durando aaaaññññoooosss... y tengo iluminacion en toooodo el barco , eso si a base de LEDS.
Saludos
Paco
Descotado.

Originalmente publicado por patxito7

Por cierto, se me olvidaba.
¿De qué tipo de madera son los pasamanos, caña, etc de exterior?
Si es teca supongo que no tendre que hacer nada, sino tocará darle algo porque esta en un estado lamentable. De hecho lo pasamanos encina de la cabina están doblados.

[Descotado]

Saludos a mi amigo CHEEKY....
:-)