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Herramientas Estilo
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Antiguo 14-06-2012, 18:53
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Registrado: 11-07-2009
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Predeterminado Re: duda novata con montaje escota mayor (Mirror)

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Originalmente publicado por Apagapenol Ver mensaje
Hola, minchus,



"Mainsheet is rigged through hole in transom [knot at end to hold] then through a block [pulley] tied to end of boom then through ratchet block fastened to transom [use a swivel mounting] then to your hand. Tie a figure-8 knot to limit the boom's travel to just touching the side stays [shrouds] as this stops sheet escaping through ratchet block and lessens impact of uncontrolled gybe."

y esta está sacada de la segunda referencia de las que te he dado en mi anterior post:

"Overview to rigging traditional Mirrors from Martin Egan, International Technical Officer

There is a simple line diagram of an old (so traditional) rigged Mirror on the UK Mirror Class Association website here.

http://www.ukmirrorsailing.com/mca/technical.htm
(NOTA mía: el enlace no funciona )

As you can see from the diagram, the cleats for the mainsail and jib halyards were screwed on each side of the mast right near the bottom (you can see one near the number 17 in the diagram). There will probably be screw holes at the bottom of your mast where they used to be. On the original boat these were a Holt Allen Jam cleat (HA 130). The snag with this arrangement is that the jib sheets catch in the top of the cleat (quite annoying). If you move the cleats around towards the back of the mast (say at 5 O'clock and 7 O'clock if you see what I mean) that should stop this to a large extent. You can use a different style of cleat - I use metal clam cleats CL217MK2AN and CL218MK2AN or 2 X CL211MK1AN about half way between the bottom of the mast and the gooseneck (15 on diagram)

The main halyard runs through the pulley in the mast (21 on diagram). One end of it is tied or shackled or spliced to the band on the gaff. Traditionally this band was brass, but more modern gaffs have stainless steel bands which are more compact (so the gaff goes closer to the mast).


The jib halyard runs through a pulley fixed to the jib strop. This is a short (about 7" long) piece of wire with a large eye splied in one end and a small eye in the other. The large eye goes over the top of the mast. The pulley is shackled to the smaller eye. I always put the jib strop onto the mast 1st, then the 2 shroud wires, then the forestay wire. These all loop over the top of the mast in the same way.


The shrouds are shackled to the shroud plates which are screwed to the wooden shroud blocks (14). There are two lots of these and two mast steps so you can sail the boat without a jib and the mast in the forward position. However, this is rarely done, most people sailing singlehanded sail with a jib as it makes the boat easier to manoeuvre and so on. The forestay is tied to the fitting in the inside centre of the bow transom. Tie the line to the small eye in the forestay and then run the line up and down a number of times. I have mine going down and back up 3 times and tie it off on the forestay eye. You need to pull this fairly tight. We racing types pull this really tight (I use about 125Kg), but with a wooden mast you need to be careful, if the mast starts to bend, you are pulling too hard.


The tack of the jib is shackled or tied to the same fitting as the forestay is tied to inside the bow transom.


The jib sheets originally went to wooden (!) fairleads fitted to the inside of the inner gunwales (22 on diagram). These were hopless - the sheets do not run through them very well. They might still be on your boat. There were no jib jamb cleats - so life was tough for crews. Sometimes owners fitted better fairleads and jamb cleats on top of the gunwales & wood fairleads. Over the years the racers have been fiddling with the position of the jib fairleads and they have gradually moved inboard. For a long time they were put on the deck just aft of the thwart. Today most UK racing boats have them on the thwart (as high and as far back as possible). The shape of a modern jib is also cut for this sheeting position, but it will work, just about, with a really old jib. If you do have the jib fairleads on the deck or on the seat you need to be careful not to pull the jib in really tight when sailing to windward, always have it eased slightly (say 1"). I would always lead the jib sheets inside the shrouds, even if the fairleads are fitted to the gunwale.


The top of the mainsail goes into the slot in the gaff, thread it in from the bottom end (where the gaff jaws are) and tie it to the top of the gaff. There should be a hole for the line in the top of the gaff and maybe a band painted on.


The clew of the mainsail is fixed to the end of the boom. Originally this was just done with a bit of line. We racers have a bit of track and a slider plus line and pulleys and cleats to make it easy to adjust.


The tack of the mainsail is tied to the boom near the gooseneck. I would just tie it very loosely, and then pull the gaff up, do the mainsail luff lacing while the you are pulling up the gaff (cleat off the halyard so you have both hands free, do some lacing, then pull up a bit more halyard). With the main halyard up you can see how near to the boom the mainsail tack should be. Often it is quite a long way away - 6" or even 9". If you can't pull the main halyard right up, it may be that you have the tack tied too close to the boom.


The kicking strap runs from near the front of the boom to an eye either between the stowage lockers or on the mast. Originally this was just a bit of rope with a large eye spliced in one end. The eye went over the boom. There was a wooden block on the boom to hold the kicking strap in the correct place. The other end was just tied to the eye on the bulkhead or mast, no cleats, so almost impossible to adjust. Your boat may have been upgraded with a purchase system (2:1 or 4:1) and a cleat.


The mainsheet starts at the hole on the port side of the transom. Pass one end through and tie a stopper knot. The other end goes through a pulley near the end of the boom then down to a pulley on the top of the transom (starboard side) and then to the helms hand.


Well, that's pretty well it (for a simply rigged boat with no spinnaker). Apart from the cleats for the main and jib halyards, the only other fitting on the mast was the gooseneck fitting (and maybe the kicking strap eye). There are any number of variations of upgrade which may have been fitted to your boat. If you need any more help, let me know.
"

OCQUEI, MAQQUEI

Menos mal que decía la chavala que de inglés, poquito.

Resúmeselo en cristiano, anda... te lo agradecerá doblemente.

Salud
__________________
Somos
como esos viejos árboles
batidos por el viento
que azota desde el mar.

José Antonio Labordeta.

Y si quieres escucharla, pincha abajo

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